Canadian Rockies: Mount Robson

0 ft

Elevation

Canada

Country

Days

Easy

Difficulty

Early July

Start

Mid Sept

End

About the Mountain

WHY CLIMB IT?

Mount Robson (12,972 ft) is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. From base to summit, climbers pass from temperate rainforest to glaciated slopes, making for a strikingly diverse journey. It is considered a true test of mountaineering skills and judgment, as there is a wide array of route options, all with variable conditions and objective hazards. Thanks to its technical difficulty and challenging weather, most ascents take 3 to 4 days, even though the mountain is not particularly high. It also has a high failure rate with only around 10 percent of summit attempts being successful.

“Mount Alberta and Mount Robson are the two classic high peaks in the Canadian Rockies that are reputed to be the most difficult to climb by their easiest routes.”

- Charlie Nuttelman

Located just 60 miles from Jasper National Park, Mount Robson is surrounded by stunning natural beauty. Major routes up the mountain include the South Face, Wishbone Arete, Emperor Ridge, North Face, Fuhrer Ridge, and Kain Face. While the South Face is the most commonly used route, it features overhanging seracs that present an uncontrolled risk. The Kain Face is a good alternative for those who do not want something as technical as Emperor Ridge (Grade V 5.6) or Fuhrer Ridge (Grade IV 5.4), although it still involves steep climbing in glacial terrain.