Tien Shan: Jengish Chokusu

0 ft

Elevation

Kyrgyzstan

Country

Days

5D

Difficulty

Early Aug

Start

Late Aug

End

About the Mountain

WHY CLIMB IT?

Jengish Chokusu (24,406 ft) is the highest peak in the Tien Shan Mountain Range, located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China in the Issyk-Kul Region. Jengish Chokusu (a.k.a., Peak Pobeda) is a picturesque yet extremely dangerous mountain. Reaching the summit via the normal route requires traversing an exposed summit ridge over 7 miles long, often in harsh, windy conditions. Its location between the Taklamakan Desert and the expansive waters of Issyk-Kul – the tenth largest lake in the world by volume – makes for fast-changing weather and violent storms. Meanwhile, being the northernmost mountain over 23,000 feet (7,000 meters), Jengish Chokusu can also be extremely cold.

“straddling the border between Kyrgyzstan and China, you’ll find one of the world’s greatest and highest mountain kingdoms but also one of the least accessible – the stunning Tien Shan Mountains.”

- Rosie Fuller

In part because of its difficulty, Jengish Chokusu attracts a select group of climbers that want to test themselves on the most challenging mountain over 23,000 feet in the former USSR. The other main reason to climb it is the stunning natural beauty of the surrounding Tien Shan Mountains. Few travelers even visit this unique region, let alone ascend a major summit there. It’s an opportunity to experience a completely different climbing culture in one of the most remote places on the planet.